The Gythio quay at dusk, a wooden fishing boat moored in front

The board reads: To Kranai, kafeneio on the quay, open 06:00 to 01:00. It alternates with the ferry time to Kythira and the Thursday tavli tournament.

Where the whole harbour waits

A kafeneio on the quay at Gythio, facing Kranai island. Greek coffee in the briki, tavli on the tables, ouzo with octopus off the grill.

Photo: C messier (CC BY-SA 4.0)

The board came from Piraeus

When the station in Piraeus went over to screens, Stathis bought the old departures board and hung it above the counter. Since 2009 it has shown the menu and the ferry time, and every morning Rena turns it by hand.

The tables are on the quay, next to the boats. Fishermen take them in the morning, ferry passengers at midday, tavli players at night. Across the water is Kranai, with its lighthouse and the Tzanetakis tower, where Paris and Helen are said to have spent their first night.

Fishing boats flying Greek flags moored along the quay, the neoclassical waterfront behind them
The Gythio waterfront. Photo: Gary Bembridge from London, UK (CC BY 2.0)
Kranai from above: the crenellated tower and a white chapel among the pines, Gythio across the water
Kranai and the Tzanetakis tower, with Gythio across the water. Photo: C messier (CC BY-SA 4.0)
The white lighthouse at the tip of Kranai, Gythio behind it across the strait
The Kranai lighthouse, built in 1873. Photo: C messier (CC BY-SA 4.0)

A day at To Kranai

  1. 06:30 Boats come in

    The boats tie up in front of the tables. The first Greek coffee is ready at 06:00.

  2. 09:00 Tavli and coffee

    The three boards belong to the house. Bring your own dice if you are superstitious.

  3. 14:00 Ouzo and meze

    Grilled octopus and anchovy, while they last.

  4. 16:15 Ferry to Kythira

    It does not sail every day, and the time changes with the season. Check with the port authority before you buy a ticket.

  5. 21:00 Thu: tavli cup

    A tournament every Thursday. The winner drinks coffee on the house all week.

  6. 01:00 Closing

    The chairs stay on the quay. See you in the morning.

Where we are

Vasileos Pavlou, Gythio 232 00, Greece (sample)

Every day 06:00–01:00

Tel. +30 27330 00000 (sample)

For groups and the Thursday tavli tournament, write to us: info@kranai.example (sample)

Directions on the map

Engraving: a stone tower on the left, ruins on the far shore and two rowing boats
The village of Marathonisi and the ruins of Gythium, 1800. Engraving: Démétrius Stephanopoli de Comnène (public domain)
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